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The Modern Grand Tourists

24 Saturday Mar 2012

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“I am in the land of the Arts; let me study them really thoroughly, so that I may find peace and joy for the rest of my life.” -Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
You could say as an American expatriate attempting to make Italy my primary home, I am already predetermined to question the role of the foreigner living abroad. But in my youth, I developed a passion (Alright, I’ll admit it. It’s an obsession of mine) into understanding the reasons people come to Rome at all, even for a few days. Through my time at university, I flaunted myself all over the British and German literalists. I spent nights in tears as Goethe explained through his lush verbiage the internal torment I myself have felt when walking the streets of Rome. My desire to stand in front of Keats grave in the Testaccio neighborhood was fueled by reading and re-reading the account of his death in Rome in  1821. The day I finally accomplished this task, I walked on air for a good week following. As I work daily with those who come to Rome, I often wonder how my own lifelong relationship with The Eternal City can translate in the short time I am in contact with those who seek out my services.

Why come to Rome?
Rome has the ability to change you, internally and completely. The distinct characteristics of Rome create a city in which a person can experience the cultural legacy from Classical Antiquity through the Renaissance and into modernity. There is a fusion of eras resulting in an emotional experience.

How long should I stay in Rome?
While I am aware not everyone has the time or finances to stay in Rome for an extended stay, I would say that a visitor could get a good in-depth feel for the history of this city in 4 well planned days. And if you only have a day or two, RomAmor Tours does a great job of compacting this down to a few hours on their walking tours. By taking a few of them over the course of say, two days, you will have an excellent understanding of this concept of Italy as the leader of “civilizing the world”.

What are the main sites I must see, if I do nothing else?
Roman Forum, Colosseum and Palatine Hill
 Vatican City including the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica with a climb up the cupola if you have the stamina
 Galleria Doria Pamphilji
Piazza Navona and the Pantheon
Protestant Cemetery

Let’s back up a few hundred years. Below is a section from an article I wrote explaining how this all got started.

The Grand Tour and Italy
Although predominantly a pleasure stay for most, elite Europeans of the 17-19th centuries considered the only way in which a young man could receive a suitable and complete education was by traveling abroad. Rome, with its ancient glories at every corner and thousands of masterpieces suspended upon every galleria wall developed a reputation for hosting a plethora of artists, philosophical thinkers and poets; Romantic authors, such as German born Johann Wolfgang von Goethe abruptly left their native countries in order to pursue a greater understanding of Classical Art and the culture of Italy in the 18th century. Taking part in what later became known as the “Grand Tour”, Goethe was just one of the many visitors to Italy who documented his stay in his book entitled Italian Journey. With “artists of all nationalities flocking to Rome to find greater inspiration and develop their talents” an abundance of artistic works and literary scholarship poured out of Rome during this time. The writers and artists of the Romantic era helped define Rome for future academic and cultural travelers. Through Goethe’s documented account in Italian Journey one finds that despite the consistent progression of time the city of Rome and the objects it possesses create a place that has the ability to enlighten and inspire any ambitious traveler.

Guest blogger, LeAnne J. Smith lives in Rome, Italy with her chihuahua, Weezer. She is most interested in the Romantic era of the Grand Tourists and the infinite change that occurs by visiting Rome.

“Le Avventure Gastronomiche” (Gastronomic Adventures)

22 Thursday Mar 2012

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To truly live in Rome, you have to eat in Rome. Part of the Roman experience is necessarily a sensory overload — a city bursting at the seams with life and energy, brilliantly blue skies, the hum of vespas, the proverbial ‘che cazzo’s’, and of course, the aromatic scents wafting from every precipice and street corner. My wise Italian cugino once said, ‘Americans live to work, but Italians work to live.’ However, I believe that the statement should be reworded to say that while Americans eat to live, Italians live to eat.

In a country where the cuisine is always, without question, determined by that which is available in the nearby region and season of the year, you should expect the food to be good — unbelievably good. But of course, it is Italy, and you already know this. But why? Unlike in America, where we stubbornly demand to eat out-of-season produce only to be dissatisfied by the resulting dishes we create, Italians are happy to make full use of the fruits of the season. What’s more is that, like the regulation of wine production in France, the Italian government oversees the production of their most renowned gastronomic delectables. You’ve probably seen the acronym D.O.C., denominazione di origine controllata on bottles of Italian wine, but this quality assurance label applies to many food products as well. Parmiggiano Reggiano (the real parmesan cheese) can only hold such a title if it was produced in or around the region of Parma and has been inspected by authorities. The same holds true with Prosciutto di Parma, Aceto Balsamico di Modena (balsamic vinegar from Modena), and Mozzarella di Bufala Campana (mozzarella from buffalo milk produced in Campana). Anything simply labeled like parmiggiano and prosciutto will not guarantee, and usually does not proffer, the same refinement that the true labels rightfully boast of.

While each region in Italy boasts of their own delights, the Romans in particular have made masterpieces of their perennial favorites. The artichoke season in the spring, where one readily finds the unparalleled carciofi alla Romana or carciofi alla giuda, is anxiously awaited every year as if it were the second coming. If you find yourself in the middle of a Roman spring, perhaps around Easter, make sure you eat at least one meal at Nonna Betta’s in the Ghetto where you will be awed by both the artichokes and the beautiful setting next to the ancient Portico d’Octavia

But if you’re not in Rome during the spring, never fear, as there are a litany of Roman dishes that are a must-try and can be found year round. Of the many options, one can never go wrong with the delectable fried rice and mozzarella arancini (also known in Rome as supplì) from 00100 or the tantalizing yet minimalistic pasta di caccio e pepe (pasta with pecorino romano cheese and freshly cracked black pepper) at Roma Sparita. If you’re not sure what you’re looking for, but want to know what’s at the heart of the cucini Romani, Urbana 47 is rare in that it serves a buffet lunch option, made only with local produce, which is worth every euro! A less pricey option that is perfect for lunch or dinner after touring the Colosseum, Fori Romani, or San Giovanni in Laterano is Trattoria Pizzeria Luzzi. The place is teeming with the fun and cozy family-run atmosphere, and only serves up the freshest food.

For the more adventurous, the trippa alla romana (Roman-style tripe) and the coda alla vaccinara (braised ox-tail) at Trattoria Perilli in Testaccio is unforgettable, but also don’t forget that, especially during the summer, Rome is bursting at the seems with simple, fresh fruits and vegetables. The perfectly ripened cherries and peaches from the Campo dei Fiori are without question the sweetest and juiciest I ever tried (trust me, I’m from South Carolina, and I know my peaches!), while the wild arugula and broccoli rabe will forever change the way you think about these greens again.

A quickly growing phenomenon in Rome is the propensity to go out for aperitivi, drinks and appetizers, in the evenings. In essence this is more of a northern Italian tradition, but the Romans are readily applying and refining the art in exciting places like Freni e Frizioni in Trastevere where, with the purchase of a wine or cocktail, you can help yourself to the never-ending buffet of artful and tasty appetizers.

With the exception of a brief period in the mid-morning and late afternoon, you will, without question, see Romans gathered around a table drinking wine and eating. They do this as if they were partaking in art itself, yet the point of it all is to casually bask in the pleasures of life, family, and friends–something I think we can all take joy in.

Some final notes on eating in Rome:
Not sure where to go? Feel free to roam down side alleys off the main drag to find a place. The hidden gems are likely the best places, and be sure to always make sure that a majority of the patrons are Italian. Then you know the food will be good!

Primi, secondi, dolci…These are the headings you’ll normally find on an Italian menu delineating the courses of the meal. One of the largest complaints travelers have told me during their time in Italy is that they were surprised to have hardly seen a vegetable on their tables during their entire visit. In most of these cases, what has happened is that these individuals only ordered a pasta for their primo piatto and maybe shared a meat for their secondo, but in Italy you have to remember that vegetables are to be ordered separately. And salads are always served at the end of a meal. Therefore, familiarize yourself with the courses and try to order most of your meals ‘family style.’ This is usually what the Italians do, and it actually ends up being cheaper in the long run.

Want to try the best?

Gelato: Gelateria del Teatro. Always has exciting and unique flavors, but Ciampini is also a classic.
Quick bite to eat: Antico Forno Marco Roscioli near Campo dei Fiori
Pizza a taglio: Pizzarium is perfect after a tour at the Vatican Museums
Wines & Eats: Enotecta Cul de Sac
Charcuterie: La Tradizione
Pastries: Pasticceria Cinque Lune or Pasticceria Regoli
Cappuccino e cornetto: Bar del Cappuccino (just north of the Isola Tiberina)

Guest Blogger Allison Kidd, an Italo-americana and Roman appassionata, recently received a Master of Studies in Classical Archaeology from the University of Oxford and will beginning a PhD in Art History and Archaeology this fall.

Woody Allen’s “Nero Fiddled”

10 Saturday Mar 2012

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To say that a movie such as La Dolce Vita inspired the course of many of us Rome lover’s lives would sound contrite. Narrowing our inspirations and paths down to such a iconic film is easy, but Federico Fellini’s lush 1960′s era film set forth an impression of La Citta Eterna that many of us will ever fail to forget. With the Eternal City serving as a backdrop any film instantaneously grows richer, more sophisticated and cultured.

Soon, Woody Allen’s upcoming film, Nero Fiddled will open across the world, filmed upon the ancient streets of a modern city. We are anxious to see our city on the big screen shining in the spotlight once again.

The title of the film is a reference to one of the most critical events in ancient Roman history. In 64 AD, the tyrantical and self-promoting emperor, Nero is suspected of setting ablaze to the suburban area surrounding (and north) of where the Colosseum stands today. Displacing thousands of citizens, once the fire was set, two ancient historians commented on the whereabouts of the Emperor at the time Rome burnt down- both stated he was atop a hill, playing his lyre and singing of the fall of the Trojans. What Nero may or may not have started created a domino effect that leads to the inception of two of modern Rome’s most prominent features. The Colosseum and the Vatican.

Nero did not help suspicions when he claimed the land burnt by the fire (a heavy populated suburb for mostly plebeian society) to finally build his Golden House (Domus Aurea). The massive complex took over much of the central area and displaced the societies that once called this area home. In the end, Nero was forced to commit suicide and after a series of less than glamorous emperors (coined “The Year of the Four Emperors) a man named Vespasian became ruler of the Roman Empire.

Vespasian need to win the public favor, the Imperial throne had just gone through enough and Vespasian decided to dedicate the land once burnt down by Nero and return it to the public- on which he and his successors built the Colosseum.

The “Colosseum” name has no significance to the structure or architectural features , but is simply named for the colossal statue of Nero that once stood at its front. A theater in ancient Greece was a structure in the form of a half circle. By placing two half circles so they connected therefore featuring in the round spectators seats, gave way to the name (Amphi)theater or two theaters. Since the Colosseum was the built by the Flavian dynasty we get the correct name, Flavian Amphitheater.

After Nero (or someone else) set fire to Rome, he needed someone to blame. His target? The new sect of religious fanatics who were unlawfully penetrating Rome with their gospel- the Christians. Sent to trial and eventually found guilty, Nero used his circus as the location to carry out the persecutions- just west of the Tiber River across the banks from where the Mausoleum of Augustus was and still is, located. Amongst these martyrs? A man who followed Jesus closely and was considered to be his “right hand man”- Peter. Peter, along with his fellow Christian followers were killed in the Circus of Nero and buried nearby. Today, through archelogical evidence, the Circus of Nero has been discovered and trace as well as the remains of a man, 61 years of age, executed underneath the site of St. Peter’s Basilica.

So what does Woody Allen’s title suggest? We are unsure until we are have to view the film but we are excited to see just what we can come up with.

The Anatomy of a Masterpiece

10 Saturday Mar 2012

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We came across these interesting detailing of the anatomy of Bernini’s Apollo and Daphne sculpture on display in Cardinal Borghese’s collection at the Galleria Borghese. Artist Christine Westrich dissected and graphed the correct bone and muscle tissues. You can view her entire project, here.

Rome, the Unobtainable.

09 Friday Mar 2012

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All visitors to Rome are served with a taste of what a society was like in earlier eras. The architecture ranges from ancient (The Pantheon), to medieval (the narrow veining of streets in Trastevere), to modern (The Ara Pacis and MAXXI museums). We, as visitors want to feel the country. We want, in our exploration to gain instantaneous knowledge of this society so loved by the world over.

Myself, coupled with the other individuals I have encountered at RomAmor Tours have one defining passion that has brought us together- this is true of all of us who have taken the path less traveled. We have a passion for human nature and the material culture of Italy. We have probably stood in front of buildings and cried, we have looked at a painting and vowed, under our breath and over our heart, to never look away.

There are those of us who believe, stronger than we believe in ourselves that by seeing the crafts in Italy and really learning about why they were made, how they were made and by whom they were made, we are, for the rest of our lives infinitely changed. My favorite quote comes from a German-born author who came to Rome as a young man, obsessed with the Classical idea of antiquity and desired to see the relics of the past with his own eyes. “Each day brings me some new remarkable object, some new great picture, and a whole city which the imagination will never encompass, however long one thinks and dreams,” (Wolfgang von Goethe, Italian Journey, 1786). This is the Roman city. A dreamers city, an unobtainable city. But that does not mean that we are not going to try. Even if you leave Italy feeling as if you know 1% of her, you have won.

Many of us come to cities such as Rome and feel lost amongst the chaos. We find the narrow bustling streets uninviting. We long for the experience of it all but refrain from truly accessing our own humanity, which seems utterly unavailable as the motorini whiz past, millimeters short of clipping our noses. We are trying to get from here to there, trying to get out of the Colosseum, the Vatican Museums, a Caravaggio, St, Peter’s, the Pieta, what we can.

There are those of us who have devoted our lives to making sure you take away at least that 1% of this city. To walk away changed, to have someone who understands and wants you to understand. I am one of those people who have devoted my entire life to making sure others feel Italy, and for that reason I am here and I hope you will be someday too.

Guest blogger, LeAnne J. Smith lives in Rome, Italy with her chihuahua, Weezer. She is most interested in the Romantic era of the Grand Tourists and the infinate change that occurs by visiting Rome.

Roma Pass, What is it Good For?

07 Wednesday Mar 2012

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There is much debate surrounding the Roma Pass and its value. I’ll state right now- you have to be a very savvy traveler to get your money’s worth from the pass. Currently the pass is €30 and is good for 2 entires into the following sites as well as good for transportation for 3 days.

Most people are going to use the Roma Pass for entry into the Colosseum and Roman Forum. There are your two entries. But if you were to buy the ticket to either one of these sites for €12, it covers entry into both of these plus the Palatine Hill. (€13.50 for advanced reservations). With your two entries fulfilled you have €16.50 worth of travel on the Metro/Bus lines- and frankly speaking, that is a lot of travel in 3 days since your ticket is €1. Most visitors to Rome take 1-2 bus rides a day if they are using the buses and Metros at all- Rome is a walking city with everything you could want to see very close by. So if this is your intention for the Roma Pass- skip it.

Another senario. You plan on using the Roma Pass to go to the Galleria Borghese and one of the National Museums of Rome (such as the Palazzo Altemps or Palazzo Massimo- both essential museums to visit in my opinion). You pay €8.50 to get into the Borghese and €7 to get into the National Museum. A total of €15.50 with a surplus of €14.50 to use on public transport- still a lot of train riding to do. And the €7 ticket for the National Museums? Good for entry not only not every museum on the network (Altemps, Cryta Balbi, Massimo) it is also good for the Baths of Diocletian.

You can see that if you are ambitious enough to get the use out of the Roma Pass, you probably want to use those joint entry tickets for multiple sites as well.

There are many benefits to the pass like entering into the Colosseum through a separate line but rest assured during the high season, the Roma Pass line is sometimes as long as the general line during the Colosseum’s busiest hours.

Recently, with the price increase there is rumor that the tickets they give you when you arrive is good for the multiple sites- if this is true, you would receive the ticket to the Colosseum and use your ticket, not your Roma Pass to get into the Forum. Then you could use your Roma Pass for entry into another site, but still even if you use it for sites with a higher ticket price you are still breaking even. As with most things Italian, it seems a lot of this is up to the ticket collector. Often they like to make up rules and follow rules at certain times. Its the blessing of being Italian, I guess.

Bottom line is, the Roma Pass is excellent if you plan to be the mighty tourist. Someone who will be in the city at least 3 full days, and is not afraid to jump on any bus that crosses your path, as well as have a long list of obscure and not so commonly visited sites to take advantage of the couple Euro discount.

Proposal, Italian-Style via London

06 Tuesday Mar 2012

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Usually, we scoff at the idea of romantic and public displays of affection, yet those who visit Rome seem to not be able to help themselves in a city yearning with love. We have but only one affection, and that is the city of Rome. But even the harsh critic inside cannot deny this mixture of great photography and a destination proposal is sweet. Italian wedding photographer, Rochelle Cheever highlights the essence of Rome as two Londoner’s find themselves committed for life under the watchful eye of the Castel Sant’Angelo. View her gallery of photos here. Warning, you may feel the urge to find a new husband so this could happen to you.

How to Effectively Travel Through Italy using Trenitalia’s Online Booking

06 Tuesday Mar 2012

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I adore trains. There is something romantic and nostalgic about looking out the window at a foreign land rushing by, going into the mountains and fields while little cities resting delicately atop a hill speckle the window with shapes and colors. Traveling through Italy is, most of the time, fairly inexpensive by train if you do it right. The network of railways make Italy one of the most accessible countries in the world and for relatively cheap. There are various ways to book your train tickets. The first way, and my favorite is by purchasing your tickets in advance online at the Trenitalia.com website. Here you will find (in English and Italian) all of the trains going to and from every major city in Italy.

Train prices are based on the duration of the train ride. A 3 hr 45 minute train ride from Rome to Venice currently costs €104 in first class and €76 in second class. BUY THE SECOND CLASS! There is very little difference between the two classes. I know because I have traveled in both (when an air conditioner failed during a 5 hour train ride during August and the operator was kind enough- okay not kind but sick of a group of 10 people complaining constantly, moved a group of us to a 1st class car). There is very little noticeable difference between the two to end up spending that much extra money. The longer trip from Rome to Venice currently costs €62.50 in first class and €45 in second. If you have the extra time and are really on a budget, weigh the time to cost ratio- this one takes 6 hrs and 13 mins but for €31 extra I could get there almost 3 hours sooner. I’d pay if I was only in Italy for a couple weeks.

Another great way to get a discount- look for the “Mini Fare” on your options. This is a discount for booking online at least before midnight on the day you are traveling. There are a limited number of Mini fares available so advanced booking is required. The Mini fare for the fast train in second class for he trip I detailed above- €59! A savings of €17 just for booking online and only €14 more than the slow train.

If you are traveling for a day trip from a main city, another way to get a discount is to travel on the same day with Trenitalia’s promotion “Andata e Ritorno in Giornata” basically, “Go and Return in a Day”. Tickets are drastically different and while I don’t suggest going to Venice from Rome for only a day, the ticket is €54.50 each way.

Ignore “Carta Freccia Day” ticket discounts unless you are a resident of Italy and will be traveling frequently. These are tickets for Italian citizens who join a discount program.

We think the “Click and Give” tickets are inspring. Imagine your child or friend is getting married and taking their honeymoon in Italy, instead of another china place setting or tupperware gift, you can purchase a gift certificate for their travels. We think one of the best gifts are the experiences of travel and they will remember you were the one who granted them access to that. Another great gift, is to book a tour for them through the Vatican or City of the Ancients.

A few good tips:
Make sure to check at the top of the schedule which train station you are departing and arriving at. Imagine traveling to Naples after planning a route and arriving well outside the city because you quickly forgot that Naples has many stations, therefore trusting an eccentric but lovely Napolitano to get you into the city to your hotel. At 26 and traveling alone with a small dog, luckily for me, I look a bit southern Italian and the driver was excited I spoke “Such the good English for a Napolitana girl!”

I like to recommend avoiding the slowest trains to my clients only because when you only have a few days in a country, sitting on a long train ride eats up your time. And no matter how lovely the traveling between cities is, the real adventure is in the city itself.

Watch out for people attempting to help you put your luggage on the train and then asking for money for their service. This is not a service the trains provide, these are  gypsies and you do not have to pay them. They will ask you for amounts such as €5 a bag, trying to look official and dressed in a uniform of sorts. Never give them money unless you have some social responsibility towards them. (I like to give money to those amazing street performers- the ones down a side street singing opera or playing a harmonica that is non-evasive).

Last piece of advice? Enjoy your time in the train stations. While hectic, they are great places to really feel the adventure of traveling. I assure you, once seated on your train you will relax and love the life of an explorer of the world.

Vatican Secret Archives

04 Sunday Mar 2012

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Atop the Capitoline Hill once sat the Tabularium, Ancient Rome’s official records office. But today, a new set of documents are on display in the Capitoline Museums that now rest upon the foundations of this ancient building. 100 documents from the Vatican Secret Archives are on display from now until September 9th, 2012. For the first time in history, the Vatican has stepped away from its penchant for cultivating an “arcana” or mysterious air regarding its holdings. Amongst the documents are parchments, manuscripts, registers and codices covering a span of time from the 8th century A.D. to the 20th, selected from among the treasures that the Vatican Secret Archives has preserved and protected for centuries. Titled “Lux in Arcana”, this exhibition can be visited inside the Capitoline Museums daily excluding Mondays from 9 am – 8 pm. Tickets are €12 and you can enter both the exhibit and museums themselves.

Benefitting from the Weakness of Others: Euro vs. Dollar

03 Saturday Mar 2012

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We never try to benefit from the weakness of others, but in this particular case, we’ll take all we can get. With the Euro in trouble, visitors from all corners of the world are expected to flock to European countries such as Italy and we here at RomAmor could not be happier. Seen as a rare chance for American travelers to take advantage of the weak Euro, the summer plans have begun already as we prepare for a busy tour season. Not only will visitors benefit greatly with deep discounts on services such as hotels and restaurants, the increase in visitors will help stimulate the failing economy. We no longer think of this as benefitting from the weak but assisting while others are down!

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